Painting
 

Just the basics guys. It's up to you if you feel you are up to it and have the right equipment.
Body work won't be covered here as that is something I am not the greatest at.
I have tried and have not done so good. I admire the guys who can do it perfectly.
This page is more intended for the newbie and explaining the whole process so you can
determine if you feel you can handle it. If you are adept with a can of paint, you should be
able to handle it, but that is up to you to determine.

Preparing the surface for painting, priming and the base coat clear coat process is all I will cover.

Using a 600 grit wet dry sandpaper prepare the surface for painting by sanding in one direction from the
front to the back of the car. For the sake of this demonstration I will refer to painting the hood. If you are
planning on painting the whole car, I would not overwhelm yourself with the whole car at once and would
attack sections at a time, like both front fenders and hood, both sides of car or hatch area.
Ok, that said lets concentrate on the hood. Like I said, sand in one direction and rough up the surface so
you remove all the waxes and provide a base for the new paint. using a wet dry 600 grit sandpaper with water.
Using a clean rag wipe off the hood thoroughly several times. Let dry and look for shiny areas that you missed.
Once the whole hood is an even dull finish, apply a grey primer. I didn't take a photo of the hood when
I had the whole thing done on mine, because I was working on the center area at the time and repairing my
hood scoop where the body shop had messed up. The whole hood required two cans of grey primer.
The buildable filler one is the best to use as it hides little imperfections. Available at your local Auto Parts Store.

Here is a photo of the hood primed in the center section although the whole hood was eventually sanded and primed
Needless to say, I also had the rest of the car protected from over spray. I just wanted to see what that affect looked like
on my hood which why I removed the masking. Decided to scrap some thoughts / plans.

Moving on, once you have the whole hood primed and thoroughly dried, you need to again take a
600 grit sandpaper in wet mode and prepare the surface. I suggest you do this just before getting ready
to apply the Base Coat.
Find a local Dupont Paint Supply store
(usually in or adjacent to a specialty auto parts store and not usually a chain like Pep Boys or Auto Zone)
Most will have a color analyzer they can take outside and on a good section of your paint can take
a shot of it and hook it up to their computer and come up with an exact color match, so you don't need
or want the manufacturers code unless you are painting the whole car, and then it doesn't matter.

 Base Coat / Clear Coat Process
It takes about one quart to do the hood. One quart to do both sides (from door back) and
a third to do the rear hatch / bumper and a fourth to do the front fenders and front bumper with the base coat.
Since the base coat is mixed with a reducer at a 50/50 mix, each quart of base coat produces 2 quarts base coat.
So, two quarts base coat paint and two quarts base coat reducer should paint the average car. Base coat mixed with
reducer is OK to store and will not harden in the can. Store any left over reduced base coat in a cool dry place with
the lid securely placed on the can and the can stored upside down.

Clear Coat

Clear Coat is mixed with an activator and you must use all of it. Coverage will vary according to how much you use,
but I applied two coats of clear to the hood using about 1/2 quart activated. One medium coat and one heavy coat.
On the hood this is not too dangerous, but on the side panels watch how heavy you apply the base or clear coats
to avoid runs.... gravity you know,,,, Maybe 3 light coats instead of any medium or heavy coats.

I used an older type DeVilbiss professional paint spray gun at 45lbs air pressure

Wait time between coats of base is 15 to 30 minutes depending on outside temperature
Wait time between base coat and clear coat is 20 to 30 minutes also depending
This is a must. Do not wait till the next day to apply the clear over the base or you must sand and re-basecoat.
The key is to show the base through the clear, so re-basecoating would be necessary or you would show the
sanded base through the clear. Not wanted of course. You also have to apply the clear while the base is
still in it's curing process so the two will bond together. Also a must.

Below is a photo of the hood with the first base coat applied. Remember, base coat is dull. The grey primer
can still be seen through the first coat on the left side.
Motion is from windshield towards the front of the car covering half the hood and then moving to the other side
standing next to the mirrors to start

Below is a photo after the second base coat applied 25 minutes later .
I believe those little spots must be on the camera lens because they weren't on the paint.
Make sure all areas have a full coat so no primer areas or lighter areas can be seen through it. It should be an
even color throughout. No sanding
 

Here is the first medium density coat Clear Coat followed 30 minutes later no sanding

Second heavier coat and final coat of clear shown below.
I only show this photo because it shows the haze that is in the air. It was taken immediately after
application. Water heater and furnace in basement both has their pilot lights extinguished so I didn't
blow myself up. haha

Here is a photo of the car with the masking and Sunday Paper removed to get a better idea.
Lens on camera was not cleaned Man, it was foggier than I thought!!!
If you look carefully inside the hood scoop you can see one of the 20 or so louvers cut into the hood for air flow.
I have about 10 directed towards the K&N Air Filter and about ten more directed towards the rear turbo.
The one in view is one of the first ones pointing towards the rear turbo.
Thought I would mention that because a lot of guys ask me if the hood scoop is functional. For forced
induction no, which is the usual use of a hood scoop, but his one is used for fresh cold air induction not
going through the radiator first which is why our engine compartments run so hot.
I have not had the opportunity to compare engine compartment temperature differences as of yet, but someday
at the track I will compare someone else's to mine just to see but I am sure it has to make some difference.

Drying time for the Clear Coat is 16 hours before you can final buff it. Normal orange peel effect on the
clear coat does occur and sanding with a 1,200 grit wet sandpaper and then using an orbital buffer with a
buffing compound will take it out. Personally I use Chief Aircraft plexiglas polish and scratch remover
which goes from 600 grit to 20,000 grit which I will do tomorrow to finish the project.

Cost of paint job minus labor $135 for supplies.
 

I hope this helps explain what is involved a little more, good luck in your adventures!!
 

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