The problem here is Mitsubishi uses spring type clamps to seal these hoses on the steel tubing.
One can be seen on the hose on the left of center. After time the clamps lose some of their tension
or the hose swells from the fluid and they start leaking. The two lines I am talking about are in
center photo with the paper towel under them to catch the little bit of fluid leaking out.
Ok, here is the process for taking everything apart.
I used a Hydrometer (battery tester) and just removed the float indicator and trimmed the rubber
off the bottom so it would go into the reservoir opening as pictured below. It doesn't hurt the
functionality of the hydrometer. The trimmed rubber piece is shown right above it. It was
hex shaped. Shown here it is reassembled and cleaned and in the peanut butter jar is the
old fluid from the reservoir
 

Below is a photo of the reservoir with the cap removed. If you look inside it you will see a brass ring
with a tab on one side. This is the top lip of the filter screen for the reservoir to keep impurities
out of the system. The photo next to it you will see the screen partially removed from the reservoir.
You must remove this to suck out all the fluid as the screen does not go all the way to the bottom
 

Here is a photo of the altered hydrometer as I was sucking out all the fluid in order to remove the reservoir
 

 Once all the fluid has been sucked out as best you can, start by removing the three #10 nuts
that hold down the accelerator cable housing. (the army kind of green box with all the
cables going into it) Disconnect the electrical connection and move the cable housing aside
as shown. Now remove the two #10 bolts that hold down the reservoir and also there is a bolt
on the front side that holds a bracket. I used a pair of pliers to slide all the clamps back and
removed all the hoses from the reservoir. You will still get fluid leaking out once you remove
the hoses. It will amount to about a half cup, so place an oil pan below to catch the fluid.

Once all the hoses are disconnected and the bolts removed, you will be able to remove the reservoir.
Now you can get to the hoses that are way at the back which is where my leak was. I carefully
checked my hoses for defects and dry rot/cracking and found they were in good shape. I also
tested them to see how tight a fit they had on the steel lines and also found they were fine so I
went out and bought 4 - 1/2 inch and 4 - 5/8th inch screw type clamps and replaced all of the
spring type with the screw type. Here is what the reservoir looks like when it is out. I just
thought I would stick it in here because it looks like some heart bypass valve, plus it will
give you a clear view of all the connections there are
 

 Explaining what each connection is for I will start on the left of the reservoir pictured above.
This connection goes to the cooler tube mounted in front of the radiator that is pictured on the
right in the above photos. While I don't really understand the great need for this line, I guess
the Mitsubishi factory engineers do. Maybe someone can shed some light here as to the need
as I have never seen the need to cool steering fluid in any other autos I have owned. Maybe
the AWD requires a high rate of flow and this causes heat, but it is only conjecture on my
part. The two lines on the bottom right going off at an angle are of different sizes. They are
the supply and return lines to the rear steering cylinder ram and connect to the two steel
lines I was having trouble with pictured below. The one line on the right side of the reservoir
that is pointing straight up connects to the power steering pump on the back side of the
engine just below the rear head. In the photo below you will see how I have started the
reassembly process by putting screw type clamps on the supply and return lines for the
rear steering. I used a 1/4 inch drive and socket to tighten them. Although a tedious job
and close quarters it just takes patience and a little ambidexterity and unlike me if you
have small hands, it is a plus,, :-)
 

 Ok, now that you have done that, before you go and put the reservoir back in, check the play
in your V belt. I found mine to be a little loose so I tightened it. Since I have an 18 inch torque
wrench I used this to adjust the tension. In the left photo below, you will see the two bolts
that must be loosened. One is an adjustment bolt and the other a stationary bolt. The bottom
one is stationary and needs to be loosened just enough to allow the rotation of the idler
bearing, but still somewhat snug. The top bolt needs to be loosened an then retightened
to hold the idler in place after adjustment and before relieving the adjusting pressure that
you apply with whatever tool you use. The slot is made to accept a 1/2 inch square drive
ratchet, but other things can be used with imagination. If your 1/2 inch ratchet is shorter you
can always use a piece of pipe as and extender. I adjust the tension by feel but there are flex
specifications you can refer to in your manual or ask someone with a manual as I don't have
one yet. Just don't adjust it to tight as you would not want to put undo stress on the bearings
of any of the components that this belt rides on, so about a 1/2 " flex is about right. Very little
flex is bad More ambidexterity is required here as shown in the photo on the right below
with the wrenches in place. Also notice in the photo on the right the spring type clamps
that the factory supplies
 

Now one more thing which may not matter to you, but seeing the horn I just had to readjust the
tone,, hehe By turning out the adjusting screw I was able to get a louder more annoying and
contrasting meep out of it. The horn is pictured below and the adjusting screw can be
seen coming out the back of it

Ok, that is about all I can think of  except reinstalling the reservoir and changing all the
remaining clamps and refilling the reservoir. While you are at it, do not, I repeat, do not put the
same fluid back in!!! While a little fluid might not harm your battery any, and I mean any residual
battery acid would certainly play havoc with the steering system. Also make sure you reinstall
the screen in the reservoir before replacing the fluid. A dot 4 or better fluid is recommended and
synthetic even better but just make sure the synthetic you use is compatible with standard oils as
this process does not drain out all the fluid. In fact the system doesn't even have to be bled or
purged and will work fine. Mine does anyway. Make sure your fluid level is accurate and neither
overfilled or under filled after running the car for a few minutes to circulate the fluid.
 

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Last update 11/08/98