This installation assumes you
have already installed the K&N or similar type increased flow air filter
or are
doing it along with the Blitz
installation. If you have not done the Air Intake Modification and the
Exhaust
Modification, you will not get
the benefits of the Boost Controller you should be getting. The addition
of the
controller and the increased
boost it yields should be accompanied by increased flow both in and out
of the engine.
Installation of the K&N
also yields a mounting spot opening up for mounting the dual solenoid unit,
so without
further ado, here is the first
photo of the mounting of the dual solenoid.
In the left photo you
will notice the wires from a plug for the relay box just right of the center.
This plug
resided on the other side initially.
I unplugged it and rerouted it around the back and plugged it back in to
facilitate additional room to
mount the dual solenoid. I wanted to keep the solenoid from blocking the
removal
of the Air Filter so I mounted
it on the slant shown in the left photo. The right photo is of the solenoid
mounted
with sheet metal screws using
both mounting tabs. The back one is somewhat hidden from view and was a
little
harder to install, but it can
be done.
Next we must run the hose
and wiring. The destination of the hose is to the vacuum connection on
the
back side of the Y pipe on the
intake. In the photo above on the right, note the white plastic retainer
that
has been screwed to the fender
well. The below right photo shows this part in a close up. They are for
use with Cable Ties to anchor
things to a surface. Don't ask me where to get them, I just had them hanging
around. They should be available
from places like Home Depot. You could also anchor the hoses to
the brake lines from the anti
lock brake block, which is what I do after this point as shown in the photo
on the
right below. The only reason
I used this here is because I felt it was to sharp a bend for the hose
going
straight to the brake lines
and wanted a more professional installation and also wanted the hoses mounted
lower
as shown in the photo on the
right. (Personal Preference) Following around the corner with the
brake lines
anchor the hose to the brake
lines for a finished look. Pay attention to the hoses and which one is
in and
which one is marked out. Placing
a piece of tape on one or the other will make it easier to identify on
the
other end. Anchor the two hoses
together and run across to the steel vacuum line that runs above the battery
and follow the vacuum line all
the way to the back of the Y Pipe area. See below for routing.
In the left photo below, you
can see that I have followed the brake Vacuum Line that runs above the
battery
and anchors to the battery mounting
post. Cable Tie the hoses to the line.
Looking at the back of the plastic
Y pipe you will see a vacuum line connected there. Remove the vacuum
line and connect the IN from
the dual solenoid to the tube on the Y pipe and clamp it down tight. The
hose
will be a little oversized but
will clamp down. Now connect the OUT from the dual solenoid to the vacuum
line
you removed from the Y pipe
using the fitting provided with the kit. Clamp it down. I used one clamp
here
instead of two, clamping both
sides at the same time to cut down on clutter.
Now we must plug off the original
control lines. In the left photo below we can see the lines removed
from the stock solenoid and
a wooden dowel rod plug inserted in the line. On the right we can see
the two halves joined together
with the dowel rod and clamped. This plugs both lines and the stock
solenoid can remain open as
it is no longer used. Leave it there for further change back if desired.
We can also see another view
of the "In - Out" lines to the Dual Solenoid
You are now finished with the
vacuum lines for controlling your waste gates. Now we move on to the
wiring and will also run the
line for detecting boost pressure
Now before we get started
on the wiring, here is what I did. The Blitz comes with a pigtail on the
dual
solenoid. The wire harness plugs
into this, however the other end has a plug on it also. With this plug
on the
harness, the hole in your firewall
would have to be fairly large to get it through. Since we want to maintain
the smallest hole possible through
the firewall, I cut off the plug as shown below in the left photo below.
The red
and black wires are for 12 +
and - so the blue and White are the only ones running from the dual solenoid.
We will splice these back together
once under the dash. The plastic cover is ½" and needs a ½"
hole in the
firewall or very close to one.
As shown below, stagger the cut of the wire to prevent them from ever shorting
if
they become exposed in any way.
The photo on the left below shows
the pigtail of the dual solenoid connected and the wiring run along
the bottom with the current
wire loom. The straps have been loosened and the wire has been run inside
the
straps to secure it. The photo
on the right below shows the wire continuing along the bottom and then
along the side
wall along side and behind the
battery location.
As we go to the next Photo,
we must pay careful attention to the addition of the boost Pressure line
coming
off of the pressure line on
the back of the Plenum. I have inserted the pressure line in with the solenoid
wire
inside the plastic loom. A careful
look at the connection will reveal this addition shown in the upper left
corner of the photo. The kit
supplies a T for adding this line by cutting the pressure line to the back
of the
Plenum. The hose supplied is
smaller and just pushes into the branch of the T and clips in there. It
will
fit inside the loom very easily.
Adding electrical tape to this area helps keep the plastic loom closed
and
holding the hose in place and
affords a very professional looking installation. Anchor the loom as shown.
The photo on the right shows
the loom ready to be fished through the firewall. Looking closely at the
loom you
will see a piece of tape wrapped
around it near the center bottom of the photo. This piece of tape marks
the
end of the pressure hose that
has been inserted inside the loom for reference.
Now going inside the car under
the dash locate the area above and to the left of the steering column
where there is a small rubber
grommet where the wire is coming through, as shown in the photo below.
Take a screw driver and poke
a hole in the grommet making a slit in it to facilitate the wire loom to
pass
through. Now from under the
hood fish the wire through the hole making sure it is routed the correct
way
and not over or around anything
you don't want it to go around. Take care not to kink this line in any
way
because the vacuum line being
a hard plastic will also kink and will not function properly if even kinked
and
un-kinked, so make all your
turns smooth and flowing with no sharp bends. Special care must be taken
when
pulling the loom through the
firewall from inside the car that you are not kinking it on the other side
under the
hood. Just take your time as
you only want to do this once and correctly. Once you have pierced the
grommet
it can be found between the
Vacuum Assist and the Air Conditioner line as seen in the photo on the
right below.
I am adding one more photo here
for the purpose of a further out view of where this location is in respect
to the refrigerant line If you
look closely at the bottom right of the photo below you will see a little
red
mark. This is my supply line
for my malibu fog lights It will not be there on yours, however this is
where
the hole is on the firewall
from the engine side. A careful look will also reveal the loom we have
been speaking
of and how it is smoothly run
along the back wall and down through the firewall. I am leaving it full
size for this view.
Ok, now that we are finished
in the engine Compartment, we move to the inside to do the hook
ups to a power source and the
controller. We must now determine how much wiring we will need for
our installation I chose to
mount mine on top of the steering column. This probably comes from my
days when Tachometers were mounted
there, but to me it is the best visible place to see it while driving
and still maintaining visibility
of the road This turned out to be to my liking because I was also able
to hide
the wiring going straight back
between the steering column and the dash. This also reduced my adjustment
of my Steering Wheel height
by about ½ inch, but that didn't really matter to me as I never
have it all the
way up anyway. Your choice of
mounting is merely personal and should be determined by you. I plan on
making a small fabric cover
of grey material that will cover mine up when not in the car so would be
thieves will not see it readily.
Another thing to take into consideration before we determine the mounting
location is the pressure tube.
It winds up being much shorter than the wire loom, so make sure you have
enough to reach your mounting
location. Also if we are mounting a Vacuum Gauge we must have
extra tubing and a T to do the
extra piping. This tube would be sufficient in size for the addition of
a gauge
if you need one, however the
DSBC has a built in Gauge. Although it reads in Metric Numbers, getting
used
to the Metric numbers might
be just as easy to do as trying to mount a gauge somewhere where you can
see it.
The pillar mount to me is the
only one where you might be able to view it while driving, but in a race
or
at the drag strip, the adrenaline
sort of keeps you from doing anything but driving and shifting and I
would say most guys know what
their boost is doing anyway and the DSBC will tell you what your peak
boost was when you are done,
so I chose not to mount a separate boost pressure gauge
So, aside from the mounting
location, we must now reconnect the plug we removed earlier. In the
photos below we see I have determined
how much wire I will need. First route the loom where you
intend on installing the controller
then proceed. I have pushed the power wires into the loom for the
power source and exited it back
under the dash, taping them where they exit the loom. You can see
them hanging in the background.
The loom now contains the blue and the white wire and the pressure
tube coming from the engine
compartment and the power wires fed back into the loom from the inside
of
the car. I have trimmed off
the loom to allow full coverage of the wires and pressure tube. I cut the
excess wire from the blue and
white using the same staggered position I used when cutting them initially.
I reconnected them using crimp
connectors. I cut off the Pressure Line to length and connected it
using
the supplied connector, and
taped up the whole loom and wires. Follow the photos below to see the progress
from left to right and row to
row Note the additional not used plug. This is for a map sensor which is
not
included in the kit and to my
knowledge no one is using that I know of.
Once the Unit is installed,
run the Power supply wires to the fuse panel under the dash to a supply
that is live with the ignition
on only. The photo above shamefully shows my current connections at
this location. The previous
owner had connected a couple things already. I have on order an 8 gang
additional fuse panel from J.C.
Whitney where I will supply power to added accessories just to clean up
this
mess, but I included the photo
as it looks now so you guys can see a location where there is an ignition
"ON"
location to pull power from.
I am not sure about the Brown Wire, but I do know the Red One is live with
the ignition only and this is
what we want. It is the second bank up from the bottom and the second position
from the left on the bottom
side of the connection. Make sure your connection is fused properly with
the supplied fuse and holder.
If a fuse and holder is not supplied with yours, go and get one. Never
connect
and unfused supply to your fuse
panel unless you are looking for electrical fires.
Here is a photo of the completed
install both at the Dual Solenoid with the K&N in place and inside
the car
For now till I can feel comfortable
with how it is set up and understand all the functions I will refer you
to
the GURU who was one of the
first to install his close to a year ago. His Name is Roger Gerl and he
is
in Switzerland. Please don't
bother him with anything that is on my pages and just deal with him
on his content. Likewise on
the flip side. :-) He also has his installation on that site if you want
more ideas.
He installed his Dual Solenoid
in a slightly different location and also installed his controller in a
completely different location
(In the Radio area) with a Boost Gauge. There are also others that installed
the controller in the left air
conditioning vent from my understanding and some in the glove box so
creativity is yours
Link
to Roger Gerl for another view of the process and programming
Additional Note:
Since I do not have settings
listed in this and steer you over to Roger Gerl's site I would also like
to add that
recently Bob Meton contacted
me and found that in his application the WG setting on the dip switch on
the rear
acted irratic and his only worked
correctly with the AC setting, so possibly you would like to try that setting
along with Rogers instructions
or remember it as a note. Since I no longer have mine I was not able to
check this theory out myself.
For Comments or questions on
this Page Click Here
To Return to 3SI Tips and
Tricks Click the Image below
Photos and text Copyright John
C. Adams Use prohibited without authorization.
For questions send e-mail Last Update
01/29/99
