These pages are devoted to the 1991 3000GT VR4
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Malibu Mitsubishi Modification©
A John Adams Original
This modification has a total cost of around $23. Now if you would like to substitute brand name big
shot fog lights, be my guest, but the mounting will be different and possibly the effects, so this may
not apply to you except for the idea, but the lights used are what make this mod special.  It is cheap,
it looks good and it saves money both now and for replacement bulbs.
So what the heck is meant by Malibu Mitsubishi??? No, it isn't a new VR4 for Barbie, but it might
attract her. I must never be confused with the Chevy Malibu, even if it is a super neat car. It was
also not created in Malibu Beach, California. The last Malibu you may be thinking of is Landscaping
Lights. I don't know if anyone ever thought of Landscaping their car, but I did. This may be a first of
many uses for Malibu lights.
How about mounting them behind your slotted Mags?? With a switch to turn them on they
would sure accent the ground effects. At under $9 a piece the possibilities are endless. The one I
purchased is shown below. It is 20 watts so it is actually brighter than the stock fogs on the 3000GT
and Stealth. A replacement bulb is around $6.  Here is the one I bought, but they have
many others to choose from

Malibu Landscaping Light

Just stick the stake through the car body and throw in some wires. Just kidding :-)
First cut off the plugs on the end, you don't need them. If you have Malibu lights at home leave a little
wire so you can use them if you need them for repair. They are a good means for attaching lights
to outdoor malibu wiring. If not, toss them Now take the wire out of the stake and place the stake in
the vise and cut it off as shown below

Landscape Light Ground Stake

Once it is cut off use a file or grinding wheel to smooth off the cut flush with the back side being
careful not to damage the pipe threads. ( Use the flats on the threads and don't tighten the vise too tight)
Once the back is flat you will need to drill a pilot hole with a 3/16" bit next to the hole the wire use to
go through and center of the hole in the pipe. The X that the stake leaves behind is centered on the hole.
I drilled mine from the flat side using the X as a center point with the flats on the pipe in the vise.
Once the pilot hole is drilled you can finish up with the 3/8" hole for the mounting bolt. The 3/8" hole
is about to be drilled below and shows the bolt you will need to do the mounting. It is a 3/8" X 16 TPI
(threads per inch) knurled allen socket bolt. I had these laying around, but you may have to visit your
hardware store for them, but they shouldn't be any more than 10 cents a piece
 

Drilling Ground Stake
 

It may seem there will be nothing left for a shoulder for the bolt, but there will be enough if you don't
get over zealous with your drilling. What we are going to do is grind the knurl off the bolt head and
fit it inside to pipe to protrude out the back. Shown below is a safe way to do this using an ordinary
grinding wheel. You can use any tool to push in on the free side to keep it on the wrench while you
rotate the bolt and grind off the knurl to fit the part we made
 

Grinding Head of Allen Socket Bolt
 

The part we have just made looks like the photo below when we are done with this step. I have
applied some grease to the bolt head to make it turn better in it's new house and to prevent rusting
 

Converted Ground Stake with Custom Bolt Inserted
 
 

You ask why such a big bolt? I heard you,, well the reason for this is the hole that you
are mounting it in that already exists on the car is just slightly smaller than that size. My intentions
on this mod was to make it non invasive toward the car and can be removed without a trace if you
wish to later or if you sell the car and the person buying it doesn't want the modification.
This combined with the fact it is impossible to get a drill in the area where we are mounting them
Ok we have one more step on this part to finish it. Place it in the vise in the position shown
 above only with the pipe facing upwards. Screw the adapter on to the light with the rubber washer
supplied and make sure you have it tight. Determine the location of the area to be trimmed off to clear
the plastic bumper that is in front of the hole. Mark it, remove it from the light, then turn it over as shown
below and using a hack saw make three cuts. One straight across and one on each side so we can grind
and contour it to fit in the area we are going to install it. These cuts trim off the excess from thefront side
of the base so it will clear the trim on the car.

Trimming to Fit the Mounting Location
 

Now using the grinder or file, round off the cuts as shown below and apply a coat of black enamel.
This finishes off the preparation of this part. Note that the flat part of the top piece you made is
now even with the outside diameter of the lower piece on the side that will face the front of the vehicle
allowing room for mounting flat to the car where we will tap the hole shown below
 

Mounting Post Customized
 
 


Now view the picture below and note the silly plastic expansion type anchor that it used all over
on this type car. It is black and looks like a screw and can even be unscrewed, but to put these in
only requires a simple pushing the plastic screw in once the expansion type anchor is installed
The existing fog light can be seen for reference

View of Mounting Location
 

Remove the anchor shown above by unscrewing and pulling out the screw and the plastic
washer/anchor. The hole it leaves above the trim is metal and can be tapped using a 3/8" X 16 TPI tap
as shown in the picture below
 

Tapping Mounting Location
 

You may have to push a little to get it started, but no drilling should be necessary. Once you
have tapped the hole, you are ready to install the base and the adapter and will have a finished
product looking like the photo below and ready to mount the lights to
 

Post Mounted
 

Mount the lights to the posts as shown below
 

Malibu Light Mounted
 

Now all that is left is the wiring to a switch under your dash



 

Wiring
 

Using connectors connect one wire from both lights together and attach to ground
(It doesn't matter which wire) Then attach both the remaining wires to a wire leading under your
dash through the firewall. Find a switched power source in the fuse panel (meaning it is only hot
when the ignition is on) and run it to one side of a toggle switch with an in line fuse. (5 amps is plenty)
Connect the other wire from the lights to the other terminal / wire
of the switch and you are done. Schematic Below


 

I recommend using solderless wire connectors such as Stake-On and placing bullet type
disconnects on the light wiring as shown in the photos below
 

Wiring Information photoStak-On  Pliers,, Crimping Connectors
 

I mounted my switch under the dash to the right of the Steering Column. The one I purchased
was from Pep Boys for $4.99. It come with two Illuminated Switches and the mounting panel and
stake on type connectors but I threw them out because they are a cheap take off. I used one and after
crimping I could pull the wire out,,, crimp body was to thin. Photo of Mounted Switches is below

Mounting Fog Light Switch
 

The effects are shown in a few pictures below
 
 
 

Front View IlluminatedFront View All Illuminated
 

These lights are basically for effect and unlike the stock, they can be illuminated any time.
Since I did the Turning Snake Eyes Modification I took a photo of the Malibu Fogs with the running lights
on at night and here is what the lighting looks like with no headlights or stock fog lights
 

Running Lights with Turning Snakes and Malibu Fog Lights

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Photos and text Copyright John C. Adams  Use prohibited without authorization.
For questions send e-mail   Last Update 9/9/98