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These pages are devoted to the 1991 3000GT VR4
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Headlight Replacement

First off I have to say, don't get worried with this one,, No, I didn't paint my car. This isn't even my car.
It is a Pearl 91 Stealth RT/TT. I was doing some work on it for the dealership by replacing the Serpentine
belt and idler pulleys and the headlight was burnt out on the low beam passengers side so I tackled
that job also. I figured while I was at it might as well do a page on it for those who have not done it
before so you will know what to do before you do it.. it's a pretty simple task, but there ae a couple tips
in here that might save you a little

Ok, here is a photo of the Headlamp assembly in the raised position using the button on the dash

Headlamp Assembly

On the right can be seen a Phillips Head Screw. There are two more on the front under the
front lip, one on the other side and one on the back. There is also a little plastic plug on the lower
right just above the control arm. These all must be removed and the whole plastic shroud
will come off up and to the front of the car over the top of the metal top cover by tilting the
back end upward and over the top

Next photo shows the plastic cover under the one above that takes care of filling in the
bottom gap from the assembly to the passing reflectors or snake eyes if you will.

Front Headlight Assembly Gap Shroud

On the Right you can see two Phillips Screws. There are two more on the other side
and the assembly will come off to the front

The next Photo you can see we now have access to the metal retainer frame around
the lamp

Headlamp Retainer Assembly
 

Remove the four Phillips Screws as shown around the frame and remove the old lamp by pulling
it slightly out, having enough room to unplug the electrical connection at the rear.

We now have the empty receptacle. At this point you may wish to refurbish the receptacle or at least
treat the inside with rust converter wherever you see rust forming.
 

Empty Headlamp Receptical

Ok, Mitsubishi has thrown yet another curve in here. I am not sure if this was done to unstandardize
the lamp from ones currently available, but a standard configuration for most all headlamp beams is
that all three spades, for the back plug in, are perpendicular to each other and at 90 degrees to the
spade next to it. I bought a standard Sylvania Halogen Lamp at Auto Zone for $4.98 only to find
out the spades for the plug in are different as you can see below.
The spade on the furthest left is not at a 90 degree pattern to the one right of it like the one on the right.
It is turned slightly to more of a 45 degree angle. Now, I can't say if Mitsubishi did this for a reason
to unstandardize it or not, nor am I aware of the right configuration being available at
Auto Zone for the same price.
I am just saying if you run into this problem and the headlamp is only available from Mitsubishi at a
greater cost, you can do what I did. I did it more so to avoid going back out again, but these spades are
soldered to the back of the lamp. I heated up the solder and turned the spade to a 45 degree angle to adapt it.
If the correct lamp is readily available getting that one is a better alternative of course, but in case this is a
ploy for Mitsu to get more money, it is the same lamp and money can be saved by doing it the way I did.
That you will have to find out for yourself, but just be aware the spade configuration is different when you go
out to get a new one before you install it

Sylvania Halogen Lamp

The black rubber moisture shield must be reinstalled prior to reassembling the lamp assembly.

Reassembly is just s reverse of what you did, so I didn't feel it necessary.
If needed reference can be made to above
Have Fun!!!
 

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Photos and text Copyright John C. Adams  Use prohibited without authorization.
For questions send e-mail   Last Update 6/15/00




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