As far as I know the first and only web page on
Transaxle First and Second Gear SynchronizerReplacement

1991 to 1993 -  5 Speed Getrag
Well, it has finally come time for us to move into the 22nd Century. Though we thought the day would never come when
we could rebuild our own transmissions, the day has come because the syncros are available. The main thing I would
like to express is the Getrag Transmissions are really a very strong transmission. Yes, they have a weak part in the
syncros, but in actuality, the syncros are even stronger than many others. The thing is that these cars are so easily
modified to astronomical proportions, they never expected to have to stand up to it. In a base configuration with drivers
who actually know how to shift they are relatively trouble free. Also remember that there are guys running close to
700 hp through these transmissions that were meant for a stock 300 to 320 hp. What other transmission can make claims
of even standing up to one race in a stock configuration. Chevy? No, Ford? No, Dodge? Maybe, but the U joints would never.
I know of no American made cars that can go through modifications like these do without upgrading the transmission
which we don't. We even put in Stage 3 RPG racing clutches without even a thought of beefing up the transaxle or the
transfer case.
That said to try to dispel the myth that these transmissions are garbage for they certainly are not.

In this procedure, I must say this is not for the timid, casual mechanic who knows a little about cars. I will not go through the
process of removing the transaxle and removing sections of the transaxle with photos as that should require fairly simple
mechanical abilities. I can only say, I removed the transaxle by myself using an engine hoist and ratchet straps. It must be
tilted down on the smaller end to clear undercarriage parts not removable, so a strap on the Bell Housing Side and another
on the back end are necessary. Remember to locate all bolts. They are a #17 metric and most can be seen except one
in the front under the car above a bracket and two in the rear under the car above a bracket. All others are visible. Exhaust,
Transfer Case and center support brace must be removed along with the vacuum canister near the front side. All intake
components must also be removed above the transaxle and the transaxle and transfer case drained prior to removal.
Remember to support the drive shaft and the exhaust. The engine flanges are all that is required to remove on the exhaust.
Only reason is to provide clearance to pull the transfer case. Drive shaft will flex out with the transfer case as you remove it
and slide it forward off the drive shaft spline, so there is no need to unbolt the flange on the drive shaft.
Shift linkage, speedometer plug on rear top, neutral switch plug on front end.
Here is one photo on approximate location of the straps for pulling and replacing the transaxle and no this isn't what
my transaxle looked like when I pulled it. This photo is putting it back after completion.

If you have a large workbench to set it on, it makes it easier to work on. It isn't all that heavy. I lifted mine up onto
the workbench to work on it. Only busted one nut, Haha
The bolts on the sections of the transfer case are a #13 metric. Remove all the bolts that hold the Bell housing on then
also remove the shifter assembly as you work your way around. There are two #10 bolts on top the shifter assembly
and a #12 bolt on the side that is a guide pin. Screw the guide pin out about 1/4 inch. It is not necessary to remove it
completely. Pull the shifter assembly out taking care not to lose the spring on the end of the shaft. If you do, no
biggie because you can fish it out of the bottom when you get further into the replacement. Just remember it goes at the
end of the shaft. The shifter assembly must also be in neutral when it is pulled out. Here is a photo of it.

Ok, now we move on to the meat of the job. After you have turned the transaxle up on it's end and slid the
Bell Housing up off the transaxle assembly, the photo below reveals about what yours will look like minus the
puller and the bearing will be all the way pressed on. Note the indent I have an arrow to. There are two of them
and you need to either take a screwdriver you use with a hammer or some type of tapered chisel using the indents to get
the bearing started up off the shaft. Take care when tapping hard at these indents to not pry up on the bearing outer
race or you will destroy the bearing. Also not to make nicks on the shaft itself.
BTW, replacing the bearing is a Mitsubishi requirement, however I inspected
mine, didn't damage it and saw no need to replace it.

Once you get the bearing up far enough by working it equally across from side to side enough to get a puller under
the inner race install the puller (three prong would have been better) and ratchet it up and off the assembly. To give
you an idea of how hard it is pressed  on, I used a 3/8 air ratchet at 90# and it came right up off the shaft.
Next we have a photo of the 1st gear raised up off the shaft and you can see the 1st gear syncro assembly, the
slider gear and the inner roller bearing.

Referring to two photo's above, near the bottom you will see an item marked Shaft Detent retainer Cap.
To explain what is in there, there are 3 detents ground in each of the the shifter arm shafts. (Slider Shaft)
These detents along with the springs and ball bearings that are under the Retainer Cap give the feel of your
different gears when shifting and also hold the transaxle in the current gear. In order for you to pull the Slider
Assembly for 1st and 2nd Gear up and out of the transaxle, you need to remove that Retainer Cap taking care
not to lose the springs and ball bearings. A small magnet will help you here such as the pen pocket
magnet from Sears.
NOTE: THE SLIDER OUTSIDE SLEEVE ALSO HAS BALL BEARINGS AND SPRINGS WHICH CAN BE SEEN AS
SOON AS THE 1ST GEAR SYNCRO IS REMOVED. THE SPRINGS AND BALL BEARINGS CAUSE THE SLIDER
TO STOP AT 1ST GEAR, 2ND GEAR AND NEUTRAL POSITIONS BY PUSHING INTO DETENTS INSIDE
THE INTERIOR WALL OF THE SLIDER OUTSIDE SLEEVE. THE SPRINGS PUSH OUTWARDS AGAINST
THE BALL BEARINGS AND THE BALL BEARINGS CATCH IN THE DETENTS. TAKE MUCH CARE IN NOT
LOSING THESE BALL BEARINGS OR SPRINGS!!!        I CAN NOT CAUTION YOU ENOUGH!!!
BALL BEARINGS, SPRINGS AND GUIDES ARE SHOWN BELOW

That said, remove the 1st gear and the roller bearing, the Retainer Cap, the 1st gear syncro assembly,
the Slider Fork and the shaft with the slider gear, noting position of all items. Especially note the Slider Gear
position on the Fork because it will fit both ways, but only one way is correct, so note differences.
If reassembled up side down, you will not be able to shift to 2nd gear and are looking at pulling the
transaxle again. We will cover that later also before we reinstall it checking shifting.

You now need to use the puller again and placing the puller under the slider gear this time you will
be pulling the slider gear and the sleeve that the roller bearings ride on. The roller bearing sleeve is the
only item pressed on to the shaft and it is pressed on about as tight as the bearing was and again
I used a 3/8ths air ratchet to remove it. You will see this bushing once you remove the roller bearings
as shown below. Don't freak out because the center section is also gone. You do not have to do this, however
the center section will come off without a problem and nothing attaches to it. All you need to do is remove the
bolts and it will slide right up off. I just wanted to check out the whole assembly as an experiment.

Ok, once you get the slider gear off the 2nd gear Syncro will be exposed.
Here is a photo of the syncro assembly. Both 1st and 2nd Gear assemblies are identical as are 3rd and 4th,
however 5th and reverse have had some discrepancies as to how identical they are and although mine
were, Jeff Lucias has a set where he says they are not identical. Mine were viewed right out of the
transaxle, however his are new and have not been installed. Whether it is a wrong delivery or there is
a difference in some models, I can not say. Anyway, here is the syncro Assembly used for 1st and 2nd.
Mind you 1st and 2nd have separate syncros. There are 6 syncros in a 5 speed transaxle. Many times
they are referred to as 1/2 syncro causing one to thing there is one syncro for both gears. Not true. They are
separate syncros but of the same configuration.
This particular one was out of my 1st gear and was a good syncro
 

The center piece which looks like brass is the one that wears and causes the problems and the worn one can
be readily seen over the new one. Photo below

Occasionally one of the other components does have a problem which was the case with my 2nd gear
syncro as is evidenced by the photo below.

Not only was the center syncro shot, the inner ring was also broken into 3 pieces. It is hardened steel so this
rarely happens but this gives a good reason to check what parts you need before you order them.

Wrap up

All that is left is reassembly. Check all parts for wear and burrs, reassemble the parts and check for
smooth operation of each part. Make sure when the slider is reassembled the springs are all pointing outwards,
(they are really fun to put back in) retainers are in place and when all three shift shafts are level height,
the 1st / 2nd slider is centered on the slider and not in 1st gear position. Reassemble the outer case using
Permatex Blue Gasket Maker. Yes, these are milled surfaces and should not need a sealant, but they do and
if you ask Frank, he will also advise it. He has had leaks himself.
Last but not least check shifting operation before reinstalling. The shifter assembly must be installed with all three
forks centered and lined up and also must be in the locator pin you turned out 1/4 inch to remove it. The pin
should go into the slot on the back side of the shifter assembly which is facing up on the photo above of the assembly.
When working in a group, if all people involved are not going to be there for reassembly, allow only those who will be to
do any disassembly or assemblers will not know where things go. Take notes if you have to because if you run into
problems, it may be a week before you get back to it, maybe two and you will forget, count on it. Nothing worse
than trying to box up a transmission to send off to Frank because you don't know how to put it back together.
Get your Parts from Frank Martin at Kormex. He is the one making this all possible, so devotion to his cause
is to all of our benefits.
MAKE SURE YOU REFILL BOTH THE TRANSAXLE AND THE TRANSFER CASE AND TIGHTEN BOTH FILL PLUGS!!!!
Capacities:
Transfer Case. .26oz or 1/4th quart
Transaxle: 2 1/2 Quarts
OEM: 75W/ 85W Gear Oil - Colder Climates
or
75w / 90w Gear oil - Warmer Climates

For Parts or complete replacements - Call Frank Martin, a very helpful man. Ontario, California
http://www.kormextrans.com
1-800-429-5464

Also Mitsubish has assigned an authorized  Distributor.

Component Remanufacturing Specialists, Inc.
John Davis - Parts Manager
10001 NW 2nd St.
Oklahoma City, OK  73127
Phone - (405) 350-3800

I also have a parts diagram for identifying the parts on both the 5 speed and the 6 speed.
Use these part numbers to order parts from CRS.
Click below to view them. They are all zipped together including a price list subject to change of course.

5 Speed Diagrams

6 Speed Diagrams

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