Valve Cover Rejuvenation

            In this procedure we will convert the look Below        To This New Look while retaining Original Manufacturers Specs

 First we start out by removing the bolts as shown in the above left photo by removing the plastic
insert's 8 # 10mm bolts and removing the plastic spark plug wire cover. Then loosen all the 12 remaining
#10 mm bolts. Loosen using a pattern of left top, bottom right, center top , left bottom, right top, center
bottom so as to relieve stress on the cover in a uniform pattern similar to installing a wheel. Rebolting will
use the same procedure when the project is complete.
Once all are loosened we can remove all of them. Have a container ready to place them in so they don't
get misplaced. Now we want to loosen the seal the valve cover has from being bolted down for so long.
There are various methods for accomplishing this from a screwdriver carefully prying up on each corner
and working it loose to gently hitting it with a rubber hammer. Either way, take your time and don't place
too much force on it and just work it loose. If using a screwdriver, take care not to damage the rubber
gasket or the valve cover by applying too much pressure. A constant steady pressure is better than
a forceful one.
The next two photos show the valve cover removed and the rocker arm and cam assembly exposed.
Note the three Gaskets for the spark plug guides between the two photos. Notice one stayed on the head
and two came off with the valve cover. Considering there is 102k miles on this engine, there isn't any build
up of gunk inside. Just the normal discoloration from the oil
 

Carefully remove all gaskets from the engine block and the valve cover. Inspect for cracking or
dry rot (indicated by hardness of the rubber) I either of these conditions exist, call your local dealer and
order a new set of gaskets for the valve cover. You will actually get two sets because of the right hand bank,
however we are only dealing with the left bank
here. The only reason you might do the right bank (which involves removal of the Plenum) is if you
are having leaking of oil problems in that area. This task just involves a cosmetic work over of the
exposed valve cover. It can however apply to both, but the removal of the Plenum is not covered here
and this painting process would be wasted there because of the right bank's lack of exposure.
A high heat Aluminum would be adequate back there. Once the gaskets have been removed and
inspected and new ones ordered if needed, we can proceed to clean up and prepare the valve
cover for painting.
I used a combination of Paint Remover, Castrol Concentrated Degreaser, Gunk, a small wire brush,
a small paint brush and a drill motor wire cup brush for my cleaning process. First wash the cover in
hot water and spray on gunk brushing with the paint brush and rewash. Once all the oil and gunk have
been removed and washed out, move to the paint  remover on the top side then wipe it off with
paper towels following the instructions for the product. Rewash with hot water and Castrol Degreaser
getting as much paint off as possible. Take care a mask is used when you wash it off with hot water
after using the paint remover. The steam combined with the fumes can get to you. Use a 5 gallon
bucket if you do not have a laundry tub to do this in so you can dispose of the water in a place where
it won't kill your grass or any other foliage you wish to keep. At this point you should have what the two
photos below show both in and out. The top side still needs wire brushing.
 

 Once the wire brushing is completed with the drill motor wire cup brush it should look like the below photo

Now, using Plasticoat Wrinkle Finish #217 Black from Pep boys or your local supply store as pictured
below,  put three fairly heavy even coats on the valve cover allowing 10 minutes between coats. Note I
have cut out some masking tape to cover the oil fill area. Take care not to put so much as to cause runs.
Now using a hair dryer heat cure the paint till you have an even Krackle coating all over.
This takes a little while so be patient. Once you have heated the whole thing evenly at one point you
will see the paint start to krackle. At that time just keep working the heat out from there till the whole
thing is done. Preferably work your way across from either end. Don't start from the middle and then go
back because the cover will have cooled when you come back to the middle again. Maintain the heat
as you move across to the other side. When you are done, it should look like the photo on the right below.
Be careful because even though the paint has Crackled, it is not dry. In fact just the opposite. It's
consistency then is almost of heated crackled tar.
When you reach this point you are finished for 24 hours curing, so take a break.

After 24 hours you can proceed to do the lettering and add the finishing touches. Take your drill
wire cup brush and hovering over the lettering and insignia lightly remove the paint from it taking care
not to damage the sided of the letters and only removing the paint from the top.
Take your time, no hurry on this one because messing it up will cause a lot more work, so use a steady
hand. Once the paint is removed you can proceed to use your choice of colors. The paint I used for the
insignia was just standard red cheapo paint at 99 cents a can. As long as it is cured, it can
stand the heat in this area as it doesn't get much hotter than your car in the sun. For the lettering
I used the Plasticoat HP - 14 High Heat Aluminum "Hot Paint" because I like the finish it gives.
I used an artists brush for this. K-Mart sells artists brushes in a set from small round to flat 1/4".
I used the flat 1/4". If you have done the removal of paint from the lettering correctly you have formed a
ridge that holds the paint on top the letter so painting them takes all of about 5 minutes a coat.
I applied three coats. The finished product looks like the photo below left. The high Heat Paint is on the
right, same stuff I used on the Plenum. Just spray a little in the cap to do the artistry.

We are now ready to replace the valve cover. Get yourself some Ultra Blue Gasket Maker from
Permatex. Manufacturers of flat valve cover seats are now using this stuff in place of gaskets, so it's
good stuff. Don't use it in place of the gasket here because your gaskets are molded to fit inside a groove
and are larger than flat cork gasket sets. It also requires a different cureing process. Shown below left is the
tube of Ultra Blue and one of the spark plug guide gaskets. Coat them all and place them in their sockets
with the rounded part in the groove. Then coat the rounded part of the full valve cover gasket and leave it
on the bench as shown below right. Now bring the valve cover to the gasket instead of the gasket
to the valve cover. It works out better this way and less mess from working with a floppy piece of rubber.
Once it is in the groove, turn the whole thing over and finish seating all the gasket surfaces in their grooves.

Now go to the engine
and make sure engine block valve cover surface is clean and free from debris. Then go back and apply
Ultra blue to the flat surface of all the gasket material. The prepared photo is on the left below.
On the right as picture above is the finished project,,, Have Fun!!!

For Comments or questions on this Page Click Here

 To Return to 3SI Tips and Tricks Click the Image below

Photos and text Copyright John C. Adams of adams@icx.net Use prohibited without authorization. For questions send e-mail
Last update 10/6/98